The Rights of Passage

There are certain things, certain aspects of tradition and everyday life that can be deemed as rites of passage into Ecuadorian life. This week has brought the experience and accomplishment of some of these, some apart of everyday life and the other, revered.

On Wednesday, we set out on our first excursion from Cuenca. It was a bus trip to the nearby towns of Gualeceo and Chordeleg. Brian met us at the Terminal Terrestre. To pass through the turnstile to the bus, the cost is 10 cents. We found our bus and took seats. Along the way, the bus would stop for passengers. This is just part of everyday life. The road to Gualaceo is very picturesque. There was a lot of activity around the school.



The bus from Cuenca to Gualaceo was 60 cents. Gualaceo is known for its greenish painted pottery. On Sundays, there is an artisan market that is supposedly quite good. From Gualaceo to Chordeleg, the fare was 25 cents each. Chordeleg is famous for its filligree gold and silver jewelry. There is a multitude of jewelry shops surrounding the park, which is in the center of town. There is also a quaint little museum. Below is one of the museum pieces, which exhibits the craftsmanship.

Below are pictures of the park.
The sculpture in the center of the park.

Chordeleg is surrounded by hills. At the end of this street, in the distance, is a lengthy staircase.

Here are Mick and Brian taking a break.

This is the church on the square in Chordeleg. As you're approaching the town, the church is quite visible.

Although the church was locked, you could still get a peek at the interior. It is quite lovely.
This is one of the paintings in the vestibule.

While sitting in the park, this little guy was quite interested in Nikolas.

To catch the return bus to Gualaceo, we had to walk down the hill.

Surrounding views.

On Thursday, we had breakfast at California Kitchen with Carlos. Carol is back from California with her mother, Betty, who would pass for Carol's sister. Even though the lillies were still beautiful from last week, we stopped by the flower market to peruse.

A new addition that we were delighted to find was a variety of tuberoses. The tuberoses are extremely fragrant and fill the apartment with their sweet aroma.

Thursday night brought us the most significant right of passage into Ecuadorian life. Henry had told us that we should partake of a true Ecuadorian delicacy, cuy. This is served on very special occasions, is popular and expensive. Mick, Hank, Sherry, Henry, Mayra, and I arrived at Mi Escondite in Recaurte, an area just outside Cuenca.

Each meal begins with sanguarocho, which is an herbal tea with alcohol, in cool climates, it is served warm. This is accompanied with fava beans, queso fresco, and popcorn.

Each guest is served a plate of mote, potatoes, half a boiled egg, and tomato slice.

Then the cuy arrives. Mick and Sherry had requested that the head and feet be removed.
Everyone is enjoying their meal.

You eat the cuy with your fingers. The skin was crispy and tasty. The meat was a little fatty. yet tasty. It was something that you must experience in order to truly be a part of the culture.

We have now successfully accomplished the tasks that allows us the rights of passage into Ecuadorian culture. At this point as newbies, there may be rights that are still unknown to us; but as we encounter them, we will endure with wide-eyed excitement and interest as we learn about this magnificent country and its people.

Until next time,

Mick and Kathy